Apistogramma Borellii Care Guide: Tank Setup & Tips

TL;DR: Apistogramma borellii (umbrella cichlids) are small (2.5–3 inches), peaceful dwarf cichlids suited for 20-gallon planted tanks with soft, slightly acidic water (pH 5.5–7.0) and temperatures of 72–79°F. Males are brilliantly colored with yellow, blue, and orange; females are smaller and yellow — pairs can be kept together with plenty of caves and dense planting for spawning cover. They thrive on a diet of micro pellets, frozen Daphnia, bloodworms, and baby brine shrimp offered 2–3 times daily.

If you're searching for a small fish that's absolutely packed with personality and color, Apistogramma borellii might be your perfect match. These tiny South American cichlids are everything a fishkeeper could want — brilliant colors, fascinating behavior, and a size that fits comfortably in a 20-gallon tank.

Known as the Umbrella Cichlid or Borelli's Dwarf Cichlid, this species has a loyal following in the hobby. They're peaceful enough for community tanks, yet interesting enough to keep you watching for hours. Whether you're a beginner looking for your first cichlid or an experienced keeper adding to a collection, borellii rarely disappoint.

Let's cover everything you need to know to keep them happy and thriving.

About Apistogramma Borellii

Apistogramma borellii is a dwarf cichlid native to South America, first described by Charles Tate Regan in 1906. In the wild, you'll find them in the Paraná and Paraguay River basins — shallow, slow-moving waters filled with dense vegetation, leaf litter, and soft, tannin-stained water.

They spend most of their time near the bottom. They're constantly poking around plant roots, exploring leaf debris, and searching for small invertebrates. That natural behavior tells you a lot about what they need in captivity: soft water, dense planting, hiding spots, and a sandy substrate to sift through.

Adults are compact. Males reach about 3 to 3.5 inches (7–9 cm). Females stay slightly smaller at 2 to 2.5 inches. That size makes them ideal for tanks as small as 10 gallons, though a 20-gallon setup gives them much more room to behave naturally and establish territory.

They're one of the more adaptable Apistogramma species, which is part of why they're so popular with hobbyists at all experience levels.

Behavior and Personality

One of the best parts of keeping Apistogramma borellii is watching how they interact with their environment — and with each other.

Males are territorial, especially during breeding season. They'll claim a section of the tank and defend it with surprising confidence for such a small fish. But don't let that worry you. Compared to larger cichlids, their aggression is mild. In a well-decorated tank with plenty of hiding spots, fights rarely cause real damage.

Females have a different kind of personality. Outside of breeding, they're fairly low-key. But once they've laid eggs, watch out. A brooding female becomes fiercely protective — she'll chase off fish twice her size, including the male, if they venture too close to her clutch.

Outside of those moments, borellii are curious and active. You'll often catch them hovering near the bottom or mid-water, poking into every corner of the tank. One of their most endearing habits is sand sifting — they scoop up mouthfuls of substrate, filter out any edible bits, and expel the rest through their gills. It's charming to watch and signals they're completely at ease.

Apistogramma Borellii Male vs. Female

Telling males and females apart is pretty straightforward once they've matured. The differences are quite obvious in adult fish.

Males are larger and dramatically more colorful. Depending on the variant, they can display vivid blues, yellows, and iridescent markings across their body and fins. Their dorsal fin is the real showstopper — it develops extended filaments that fan out like an umbrella, which is exactly how the common name came about.

Females are smaller and much more subdued in coloration. They tend to be yellowish-brown with a dark lateral stripe or blotchy pattern. When they're guarding eggs or fry, females often intensify to a bright lemon yellow — a clear visual signal to everyone in the tank to back off.

Juveniles are harder to sex. Wait until they're closer to adult size before making a confident call.

Apistogramma Borellii Color Variants

Selective breeding has produced several attractive color variants of Apistogramma borellii. Here are the ones you're most likely to encounter:

Blue — The most popular and widely available variant. Males develop intense blue coloration across their body and fins. This is the classic borellii look most people recognize.

Opal — A softer, pearlescent variant with iridescent scales that shimmer under aquarium lighting. Very popular with collectors for its subtle, elegant appearance.

Yellow — Males display strong yellow tones instead of blue. Less common but equally eye-catching, especially in a planted tank.

Red — A more recently developed variant featuring reddish hues in the fins and body. Harder to find but striking.

Wild-caught fish tend to have more muted tones compared to captive-bred variants. If you want maximum visual impact, look for selectively bred specimens from a reputable breeder or fish store.

Apistogramma Borellii Aquarium Setup

Replicating the borellii's natural habitat is the key to keeping them healthy and colorful. The good news is that it doesn't require a complicated or expensive setup.

Tank Size

A 10-gallon tank can house a single pair. But a 20-gallon long is a much better choice. It gives you room for proper planting, multiple caves, and a small community of tank mates. It also helps buffer water quality between changes.

Water Parameters

This is where borellii care gets slightly specific. They naturally come from soft, slightly acidic water. Matching those conditions brings out the best in their color and behavior.

If your tap water is hard or alkaline, consider mixing in RO (reverse osmosis) water to soften it. Indian almond leaves and driftwood naturally lower pH and release tannins that borellii genuinely love.

Among Apistogramma species, borellii are among the more forgiving. They can tolerate pH up to 7.0 without major issues, which makes them more accessible for hobbyists who can't achieve ultra-soft water.

Substrate

Use fine sand. These fish sift the substrate constantly, and sharp gravel can damage their delicate mouthparts over time. Dark sand also makes their colors pop beautifully.

Plants and Décor

Dense planting is ideal. Stem plants, floating plants, and low-growing carpeting species all work well. Heavy planting provides cover for females, helps males establish separate territories, and breaks line of sight to reduce stress.

Caves are non-negotiable. Coconut shell huts, clay pots, or dedicated aquarium caves all work well. Every female needs at least one cave to retreat to. If you're keeping a pair or small group, provide more caves than you think you need.

Add leaf litter too. Indian almond leaves do double duty — they create a natural, tannin-stained look that borellii thrive in and slowly condition the water chemistry as they break down.

Filtration

Keep filtration gentle. A sponge filter is ideal. If you prefer a hang-on-back filter, use a flow diffuser or aim the output at the glass to reduce current. Strong flow stresses these fish out and may suppress breeding behavior.

What to Feed Apistogramma Borellii

Apistogramma borellii are carnivores. In the wild, they eat small invertebrates, insect larvae, worms, and tiny crustaceans. Your feeding routine should reflect that.

Best food options:

• Frozen bloodworms — their all-time favorite, rich in protein and great for triggering breeding behavior
• Frozen brine shrimp — another excellent protein source, easy to digest
• Daphnia — excellent for digestive health, especially useful if fish seem off their food
• High-quality dwarf cichlid pellets — use as a reliable base food between live and frozen offerings

Feed small amounts twice a day. These fish have small stomachs and can't handle large portions. Remove uneaten food after a few minutes to avoid fouling the water — poor water quality is the number one health risk for borellii.

Avoid large pellets or flakes designed for bigger fish. Everything you feed them needs to be small enough to fit comfortably in their mouth.

Best Apistogramma Borellii Tank Mates

Apistogramma borellii do very well in community tanks as long as you choose companions thoughtfully. The wrong tank mates can stress them out, outcompete them for food, or trigger constant territorial disputes.

Excellent tank mates:

• Small peaceful tetras — neon tetras, ember tetras, and cardinal tetras are all great choices
• Corydoras catfish — they share the bottom level without conflict and help keep things clean
• Otocinclus catfish — gentle algae eaters that stay out of everyone's way
• Harlequin rasboras — mid-water schooling fish that add movement without causing stress
• Pencilfish — calm, upper-water species that complement borellii beautifully
• Small danios — active but generally non-aggressive with bottom-dwellers

Avoid:

• Other cichlids (unless you have a large, well-decorated tank with clear territory division)
• Large or aggressive fish that will bully them
• Boisterous, fast-moving fish that cause constant stress
• Competing bottom-dwellers that may fight over territory

The golden rule: choose fish that occupy different levels of the tank and won't compete for the same space or food. Upper and mid-water companions work perfectly alongside borellii.

Breeding Apistogramma Borellii

Breeding borellii is one of the most rewarding things you can do in the freshwater hobby. Once they're comfortable, well-fed, and in good water conditions, they'll often spawn without much extra encouragement.

How to trigger spawning:

• Raise the temperature slightly to 78–82°F
• Perform small, frequent water changes with slightly cooler water to mimic a rainy season
• Increase the frequency of live and frozen food feedings
• Make sure at least one suitable cave is in the tank

The female takes charge of the spawn. She'll lay 50 to 100 eggs inside her chosen cave and guard them fiercely. She fans the eggs constantly to keep them oxygenated and picks off any that turn white (unfertilized).

Eggs typically hatch within 2 to 3 days at warmer temperatures. The fry become free-swimming after another 3 to 5 days. Once they're free-swimming, the female's protective instincts kick into high gear — she'll chase away any fish that gets too close, including the male.

Feed the fry with infusoria, baby brine shrimp nauplii, or a commercial fry food. They grow relatively quickly and start developing visible color within a few weeks.

In a tank under 20 gallons, consider separating the male once the fry are free-swimming. This reduces stress on the female and prevents her from constantly defending against him. In larger, well-planted tanks, there's usually enough space for both parents to coexist.

Are Apistogramma Borellii Easy to Keep?

Short answer: yes, with one important condition — water quality matters.

If you're already comfortable with basic fishkeeping concepts like cycling a tank and testing water parameters, borellii aren't difficult at all. They're actually one of the more beginner-friendly Apistogramma species, mainly because they tolerate a wider pH range than many of their relatives.

The five things to get right:

1. Soft, slightly acidic water with stable parameters
2. A fully cycled, established tank
3. Gentle filtration — no strong currents
4. Caves and dense planting for cover and spawning
5. Small, protein-rich foods offered consistently

Nail those five things, and your Apistogramma borellii will reward you with vivid color, active behavior, and — quite possibly — a batch of fry you didn't even plan for.

They're not a set-it-and-forget-it fish. But they're absolutely worth the small extra effort it takes to keep their water clean and their tank properly decorated. Once you've kept borellii, it's hard to imagine a planted tank without them.