Anubias Plant Care: Varieties, Planting Tips & Common Mistakes

Anubias is one of the toughest aquatic plants you can buy. It survives low light, neglect, and even the most aggressive plant-eaters. Beginners and expert aquascapers both rely on it.

Quick Answer: Anubias is a slow-growing, low-light aquatic plant native to West Africa. It thrives in water between 72–82°F with a pH of 6.0–7.5. Never bury its rhizome — attach it to driftwood or rock instead, or it will rot within weeks.

What Is Anubias?

Anubias is a genus of hardy aquatic plants from West and Central Africa. These plants grow along riverbanks and rocky streambeds. They thrive in shaded, slow-moving water with little direct sunlight.

The genus belongs to the family Araceae — the same family as peace lilies. There are around 8 recognized species, with dozens of cultivated hobby varieties [1]. As of June 2026, Anubias remains one of the most widely traded aquarium plants in the world.

Pro Tip: Anubias grows so slowly that algae colonizes its leaves faster than on most plants. Keep nitrates below 20 ppm to slow leaf algae growth significantly.

Why Aquarists Love Anubias

This plant works in almost any aquarium setup. It doesn't need CO2 injection, strong lighting, or nutrient-rich substrate. That flexibility makes it ideal for beginners and experts alike.

Anubias also resists plant-eating fish. Cichlids, goldfish, and large plecos usually leave it alone. The tough, leathery leaves hold up where softer plants get shredded.

Anubias in the Wild

Wild Anubias grows on rocks and submerged roots — never buried in soil. It grips hard surfaces using a thick horizontal stem called a rhizome. This detail is the most critical thing to understand before planting.

Rivers in West Africa provide the low-light, slow-flow conditions Anubias prefers [2]. Mimicking these conditions produces healthy, long-lived plants in the home aquarium.

Popular Anubias Varieties and How They Differ

Choosing the right Anubias variety depends on your tank size and aquascape goals. Some stay tiny. Others grow bold, broad leaves. Here's the data you need to decide.

Common Myth: "Anubias nana and Anubias barteri var. nana are different plants." Reality: They are the same plant. Anubias barteri var. nana is the full scientific name. Most sellers shorten it to Anubias nana for convenience.

Anubias Nana — The Beginner Favorite

Anubias nana is the most popular choice in the hobby. Its compact size fits any tank size. It stays under 15 cm tall even after years of growth.

The leaves are dark green and bullet-shaped. It grows slowly enough to pair peacefully with nano fish and shrimp. Most fish stores carry it year-round at affordable prices.

Anubias Barteri — The Versatile Workhorse

Anubias barteri is the largest commonly sold species. It grows bold, wide leaves that fill open midground space. Plant it in the background for maximum visual impact in larger tanks.

This variety also flowers more readily in aquariums than smaller cultivars. It's an excellent anchor plant for naturalistic aquascape layouts. See our Best Aquarium Plants guide for how Anubias fits into a complete planted tank.

Anubias Coffeefolia — The Textured Gem

Anubias coffeefolia has distinctively wrinkled, dark green leaves with reddish-brown new growth. It's a showstopper in midground positions. Its unique texture adds contrast that smooth-leaved plants can't provide.

This variety grows slightly faster than standard barteri. The wavy leaf surface also shows off biofilm more visually — shrimp love it.

Anubias Care: Water, Light & Fertilizers

Anubias is one of the most forgiving aquarium plants you can grow. Getting the basics right still leads to faster, healthier growth over months and years.

Water Parameters

Anubias tolerates a wide range of conditions. Here are the ideal targets:

• Temperature: 72–82°F (22–28°C)
• pH: 6.0–7.5
• Hardness: 3–8 dGH (soft to moderately hard)
• Nitrates: Keep below 20 ppm to limit leaf algae
• Lighting duration: 8–10 hours per day [3]

Most community tank conditions work fine. Anubias survives even outside these ranges for short periods without permanent damage.

Pro Tip: Anubias tolerates temperature swings better than most aquarium plants. If your heater malfunctions overnight, your Anubias will likely survive without any visible damage.

Lighting Requirements

Anubias thrives under low to moderate light — roughly 15–30 lumens per liter. Bright light accelerates algae growth on its slow-moving leaves. Less light is almost always better with this genus.

Aquarium lighting schedules of 8–10 hours per day work perfectly. Avoid intense fixtures unless fast-growing stem plants nearby compete for nutrients. A basic LED at low-to-mid intensity handles this plant well without over-driving algae.

Fertilizers and CO2

Anubias absorbs nutrients through its leaves, not just its roots. Liquid fertilizers help but aren't required. A normal fish-waste cycle often provides enough nutrition for steady growth.

CO2 injection isn't necessary. Adding it speeds growth slightly — from 1–2 new leaves per month up to 3–4. Without it, Anubias grows at its natural slow pace. Don't add CO2 just for Anubias; it's unnecessary for this species.

See our Fertilizer Dosing Schedule for Planted Aquariums to optimize plant nutrition if you want to push growth speed in a higher-tech setup.

How to Plant Anubias Correctly

The biggest beginner mistake is burying the rhizome in the substrate. The rhizome is the thick horizontal stem that connects roots and leaves. Burying it causes rot and plant death within 2–4 weeks.

Attaching to Wood or Rock

The correct method is to tie or glue Anubias to a hard surface. Here's the exact process:

1. Choose a piece of driftwood or a smooth rock.
2. Position the plant with roots resting against the surface.
3. Use black cotton thread or cyanoacrylate gel (aquarium-safe super glue) to secure the rhizome.
4. Thread naturally dissolves in 4–6 weeks. By then, roots grip the surface on their own.

Super glue is safe for aquariums once fully cured. It bonds in about 30 seconds and becomes fish-safe when dry. Apply glue to the rock, press the rhizome firmly, and hold for 30 seconds.

Planting in Substrate

You can partially plant Anubias in gravel or sand — but keep the rhizome exposed above the surface. Push the roots down into the substrate. Leave the green horizontal stem clearly above the gravel line.

See our Best Aquarium Substrate for Planted Tanks to find a substrate that holds roots without compacting too tightly around the rhizome base.

Pro Tip: Attach small Anubias nana 'Petite' to individual pebbles with super glue. Place the pebbles anywhere in the tank. Rearranging your layout later is easy — just pick up the pebble without disturbing established roots.

For a clean, algae-free start, the Luffy Anubias Nana Live Aquarium Plant on Amazon offers tissue-culture plants that arrive pest- and algae-free — a major advantage over conventional nursery stock that sometimes carries snails or hair algae.

Anubias and Fish: The Best Tank Mates

Anubias works with nearly every community fish because its leaves are too tough for most fish to damage easily. Fish that destroy softer plants leave Anubias alone in the vast majority of setups.

Fish That Thrive With Anubias

Some species actively use Anubias leaves as resting spots and spawning surfaces:

• Dwarf cichlids (Apistogramma, rams) lay eggs on wide, flat leaves.
• Corydoras catfish rest in the shade under broad leaf cover.
• Betta fish sleep on low-hanging leaves near the water surface.
• Neocaridina and Caridina shrimp graze biofilm from older leaves constantly.
• Otocinclus catfish clean algae from leaf surfaces without damaging them.

Fish to Watch Carefully

A few species cause damage under certain conditions:

• Oscars and large cichlids may tear leaves when stressed or bored.
• Goldfish may nibble young leaves when underfed. See the goldfish care guide at PetMD for proper feeding schedules.
• Silver dollars are dedicated leaf-eaters — skip all live plants with them.
• Large plecos may rasp on leaves, leaving pits and holes over time.

Check out our guide to Best Low Light Aquarium Plants for Beginners to build a complete low-tech planted setup with Anubias as the centerpiece species.

Common Beginner Mistakes With Anubias

Most Anubias problems trace back to three root causes: wrong placement, too much light, and poor water quality. Fixing these three things solves the majority of issues keepers encounter.

Mistake 1: Burying the Rhizome

This kills more Anubias plants than anything else. The rhizome turns brown and mushy when buried. The plant collapses within 2–4 weeks of improper planting.

Always expose the rhizome. Roots go into the substrate or against the attachment surface. The green horizontal stem must remain visible and in contact with water.

Mistake 2: Too Much Light

Bright light accelerates algae growth on Anubias leaves faster than on any other common aquarium plant. Algae coats the leaf surface. Photosynthesis becomes blocked and the plant slowly weakens.

Reduce the lighting schedule to 8 hours per day if algae appears on leaves. Move the plant to a shadier corner of the tank. Adding fast-growing floating plants like frogbit or water lettuce reduces surface light intensity naturally.

Mistake 3: Scrubbing Algae Aggressively

Scrubbing algae off Anubias leaves damages the waxy protective coating on the leaf surface. This makes future algae colonization faster and worse. Use only a soft toothbrush — never abrasive pads, rough sponges, or stiff brushes.

Common Myth: "Brown leaves mean the plant is dying." Reality: Individual older leaves naturally brown and die over time — this is normal senescence. If new leaves are emerging from the rhizome tip, the plant is healthy. Trim brown leaves at the base with clean scissors.

Mistake 4: Cutting Too Small During Propagation

Many beginners create rhizome divisions too small to survive independently. Each division needs at least 3 healthy leaves and a 5+ cm rhizome section to establish properly. Smaller pieces stall, rot, or die before roots establish on the new surface.

Anubias Propagation: Grow More Plants for Free

Anubias propagates through rhizome division — one plant becomes two or more with a clean cut. Seeds are not commercially available. Division is the only reliable method hobbyists use.

Step-by-Step Rhizome Division

The process is straightforward. Here's the full method:

1. Remove the plant from its attachment point carefully.
2. Identify a long rhizome with at least 6 healthy leaves.
3. Cut the rhizome cleanly in half using sterile scissors or a clean razor blade.
4. Each division needs at least 3 leaves and visible roots to survive.
5. Reattach both sections to fresh wood or rock using thread or super glue.
6. New growth emerges from the cut end within 4–8 weeks.

The cut end heals on its own. No sealant, wound treatment, or special product is needed. Clean tools prevent bacterial infection at the wound site.

Anubias Flowering in Aquariums

Anubias flowers underwater. It produces a white spathe — a hooded flower structure — in stable, mature tanks. Flowering typically occurs after 6+ months of consistent water conditions and lighting cycles.

Underwater flowers rarely produce viable seeds in hobby setups. Most propagation happens through rhizome division, not reproduction. If you see a spathe emerging, it's a sign your tank conditions are stable and your plant is thriving.

Ready to get started? The Anubias Barteri Bundle on Amazon offers multiple varieties at once — growing them side by side lets you compare growth rates and pick favorites for future layouts. For nano tank detail work, the Anubias Nana Petite on Amazon is the best small-scale option available.