Anubias Plant Care: How to Grow, Plant, and Keep It Alive
Freshwater Fish

Anubias Plant Care: How to Grow, Plant, and Keep It Alive

Discover why Anubias is the #1 low-light aquarium plant for beginners. Care tips, species comparison, and planting guide. Start growing Anubias today!

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Anubias might be the most forgiving plant in the freshwater hobby. These tough, leafy plants from West Africa thrive in low light and skip the CO2 injection debate entirely.

Quick Answer: Anubias are slow-growing, low-light aquatic plants native to West and Central Africa. Attach them to rocks or driftwood — never bury the rhizome. They thrive in water between 72–82°F, pH 6.0–7.5, and survive almost any standard aquarium lighting setup.

Anubias survive conditions that kill most aquarium plants. That's the short answer. They handle low light, irregular fertilization, and even plant-eating fish without complaint.

Their thick, waxy leaves are mildly bitter. Most fish won't touch them. This makes Anubias ideal for tanks with goldfish, African cichlids, and silver dollars [1].

They Work in Almost Any Setup

Anubias don't need:

  • CO2 injection
  • High-powered lighting
  • Nutrient-rich substrate
  • Daily fertilizer dosing

They're genuinely low-maintenance plants — set them up and mostly leave them alone.

Why Beginners Love Them

New aquarists often watch plants melt or die within weeks. Anubias rarely do this. They adapt slowly and steadily to new tank conditions.

As of May 2026, Anubias remain one of the top-recommended beginner plants across planted tank forums and communities. Keeper consensus in 2026 is clear — these plants are nearly impossible to kill if you follow one key rule.

Pro Tip: If your Anubias leaves look pale or yellowing, add a liquid fertilizer with iron. Yellowing usually signals a nutrient deficiency, not a lighting problem.

Key Takeaways

What you need to know

Survives low light — no special lighting needed

No CO2 injection required for healthy growth

Thick bitter leaves repel most plant-eating fish

Works in any substrate — or no substrate at all

Rarely melts or dies from beginner mistakes

5 key points

Anubias Species: Which One Fits Your Tank?

Not all Anubias look the same — size and leaf shape vary widely between species. Picking the right one matters for your tank size and aquascape layout.

SpeciesLeaf SizeMax HeightBest ForDifficulty
A. nanaSmall5–7 inNano tanks, foregroundEasiest
A. barteriMedium10–16 inMid-ground, all sizesEasy
A. coffeefoliaMedium8–12 inMid-ground, texture displaysEasy
A. hastifoliaLarge18–24 inBackground, large tanksEasy
A. giganteaVery Large24+ inSpecimen plant, 75+ galEasy
A. nana 'Petite'TinyUnder 3 inForeground, nano, aquascapeEasy

The Hobby Workhorse: Anubias Nana

Anubias nana stays small, grows slowly, and attaches easily to hardscape. It's the best starting point for most aquarists. You'll find it at nearly every local fish store.

Check out our guide to the best low light aquarium plants for beginners if you're building a full low-tech planted tank around Anubias.

Specialty Varieties Worth Knowing

Anubias nana 'Petite' is a dwarf mutation that stays under 3 inches tall. It's perfect for foreground aquascaping in nano tanks.

Anubias coffeefolia has rippled, deeply textured leaves unlike any other variety. It grows a bit slower than A. barteri but makes a striking centerpiece in mid-sized tanks.

Anubias nana vs Anubias barteri

Side-by-side comparison

FeatureAnubias nanaAnubias barteri
Max Height5–7 inches10–16 inches
Best Tank Size5–20 gallons10+ gallons
Leaf SizeSmall, roundMedium, oval
Growth SpeedVery slowSlow
AvailabilityVery commonVery common
Price$6–12$8–15
Aquascape UseForeground / nanoMid-ground / accent

Our Take: Anubias nana wins for nano and small tanks. Anubias barteri is the better all-rounder for most community setups. Both are equally beginner-friendly.

How to Plant Anubias the Right Way

The single most important Anubias rule: never bury the rhizome. The rhizome is the thick green stem that connects the roots to the leaves. Bury it and it rots. The plant will die within weeks.

Common Myth: "Plant Anubias in substrate just like any other aquarium plant." Reality: Anubias are epiphytic rhizome plants. The rhizome must stay fully above the substrate at all times [2]. Burying it cuts off oxygen to the stem and causes rapid rot.

Attaching to Rocks and Driftwood

Attaching Anubias to hardscape is simple. Follow these five steps:

  1. Hold the rhizome flat against your rock or driftwood
  2. Wrap it with black cotton thread or clear fishing line
  3. Alternatively, apply a small dab of super glue gel to the rhizome
  4. Press firmly for 30 seconds until bonded
  5. Roots will anchor naturally within 2–4 weeks

Black cotton thread biodegrades safely in aquarium water. Super glue (cyanoacrylate) is fish-safe once fully cured.

Pro Tip: Use aquarium-safe super glue gel on Amazon to attach Anubias to driftwood. It bonds in seconds and stays inert in water indefinitely.

What About Substrate Placement?

You can place Anubias near substrate — just keep the rhizome above it. The roots can extend down into gravel or sand. Many aquarists wedge the plant between a rock and the substrate, keeping the rhizome fully exposed above the gravel line.

Anubias pairs beautifully with java fern, another rhizome plant with the same planting rules. Both thrive mounted on the same piece of driftwood.

Light, Water, and Fertilizer Requirements

Anubias tolerate a wide range of water conditions and match most community tank setups without adjustments. They don't demand perfect parameters.

Water Parameters to Target

  • Temperature: 72–82°F (22–28°C)
  • pH: 6.0–7.5
  • Hardness: 3–8 dKH (soft to moderately hard)
  • Lighting intensity: Low to medium (20–40 PAR at leaf surface)
  • Photoperiod: 6–8 hours daily
  • CO2: Optional — not required for healthy growth

The Aquatic Gardeners Association notes that Anubias perform well even under basic fluorescent shop lights. That's a testament to their real-world adaptability.

Light: Lower Is Often Better

Anubias actually prefer lower light levels. High light encourages algae to colonize their slow-moving leaves. This is the single most common mistake aquarists make with this plant.

Aim for 20–40 PAR at the leaf surface. Budget LED fixtures work perfectly. You don't need a high-end planted tank light for healthy Anubias.

Fertilizers: Less Than You'd Think

Anubias are light feeders. They absorb nutrients primarily through their leaves, not their roots. A weekly dose of liquid all-in-one aquarium fertilizer on Amazon is more than enough.

Root tabs offer little benefit since Anubias bypass root feeding almost entirely. Save your money and use liquid fertilizer instead.

Quick Facts

Temperature

72–82°F (22–28°C)

pH Range

6.0–7.5

Hardness

3–8 dKH

Light Intensity

20–40 PAR (low to medium)

Photoperiod

6–8 hours daily

CO2

Optional — not required

Fertilizer

Weekly liquid dose (half strength)

Growth Rate

1–2 new leaves per month

At a glance

Common Anubias Problems and How to Fix Them

The most common Anubias problem is black beard algae (BBA) growing on the leaves [3]. Slow leaf growth means each leaf stays in the tank for months, collecting algae the whole time.

Fixing Black Beard Algae

BBA looks like short dark tufts on leaf edges and surfaces. It's stubborn but beatable. Here's how to handle it:

  • Trim heavily affected leaves at the rhizome to remove the worst growth
  • Spot-treat remaining algae with liquid glutaraldehyde (like Seachem Excel) applied directly
  • Improve water flow near the plant to eliminate stagnant dead zones
  • Shorten your light period to 6 hours temporarily while the tank recovers

BBA thrives when CO2 levels fluctuate sharply. Stable tank conditions are the long-term prevention.

Yellow or Melting Leaves

Yellow leaves usually mean iron or potassium deficiency. Add a complete liquid fertilizer and watch for green new growth over the next few weeks.

Melting leaves sometimes happen right after purchase. Anubias sold in stores are often grown emersed — with leaves above the water. They shed old leaves and grow new submersed-adapted replacements. This is completely normal. Don't pull the plant.

For another resilient low-tech plant that handles similar problems, check out our hornwort plant care guide.

Slow Growth: Normal or a Problem?

Expect 1–2 new leaves per month in good conditions. In low light with no CO2, it might be one leaf every six to eight weeks.

If growth stalls completely, check for these four issues:

  1. Ammonia or nitrite spikes stressing the plant
  2. Light intensity under 10 PAR at the leaf
  3. Zero fertilizer input for months
  4. Rhizome partially buried or developing rot

Common Myth: "Anubias should grow as fast as stem plants if conditions are good." Reality: Anubias are naturally slow growers regardless of conditions. One new leaf per month is healthy progress. High light to force faster growth typically causes algae, not a faster plant.

Where to Buy Anubias and What to Expect to Pay

Buy Anubias with at least 3–4 healthy green leaves and a firm, bright green rhizome. Avoid any plant with a brown, mushy, or soft rhizome — those rarely recover no matter what you do.

What to Check In-Store

When shopping at a local fish store, inspect these details before buying:

  • Rhizome is firm and vivid green
  • No brown or black soft spots anywhere on the rhizome
  • Roots are white or light tan in color
  • Leaves are free of heavy BBA or significant brown patches

Online Buying Tips

Online sellers on Etsy, eBay, and planted tank forums often offer better prices and more species variety. Tissue culture Anubias cost more upfront but arrive 100% pest-free and algae-free — worth it for clean established tanks.

Ready to get started? Shop Anubias barteri on Amazon for reliable delivery with seller reviews you can check before buying. Look specifically for tissue culture listings for the cleanest plants.

Price Guide — May 2026

VarietyTypical PriceNotes
A. nana (small cutting)$6–12Most widely available
A. barteri (medium)$8–15Best all-rounder
A. coffeefolia$10–20Textured leaves
Tissue culture cup$12–25Pest-free, worth the premium
A. nana 'Petite'$15–25Nano favorite
Rare varieties ('Snowflake', etc.)$20–40Collector appeal

Prices are accurate as of May 2026 and vary by seller and quantity purchased.

Frequently Asked Questions

No — Anubias don't need substrate. They grow best attached to rocks or driftwood. In a bare-bottom tank, they thrive with no gravel whatsoever. If you want them near substrate, let the roots touch the gravel while keeping the rhizome fully above it.

References & Sources

Disclaimer: This content is for informational purposes only and does not replace professional veterinary advice. Product recommendations may contain affiliate links. Always consult a qualified aquatic veterinarian for health concerns.

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